The Blooming Wind

Wind+pic+2.jpg

As horse owners we often hate the wind because it increases the likelihood for a disaster to happen to our horses.
Today I want to show you what we can do as veterinarians to try and speed up wound healing following a traumatic injury.

Leg injures from wire or other forms of trauma are very common. A lot of vets do not believe in stitching leg wounds on horses as it is very common for them to break down. However, I have a different approach. I think we can use the spare skin where possible, to act like a giant real life sticky plaster. The aim is to bring the skin edges closer together to allow a moist environment for wound healing, to protect underlying vital structures, and to hope that some of the skin will stay alive and attached down to the underlying connective tissue meaning the amount of new skin that has to grow is much reduced.
Here are two examples of hind limb skin wounds that are very common. They are simply examples of how I chose to manage the wounds at the time. Multiple factors are involved in decision making including location of the horse, horse compliance, owners finances, importance of vital structures involved in the wound, and urgency of wound healing.

Case one:
A non fresh, full thickness skin injury to the front and top (dorso-proximal) aspect of the hind leg. This is a common injury and can be a difficult site to get fully healed due to the movement at the base of the hock. Because this wound was contaminated, it was important to clean up the skin and tissues, and regardless whether it was possible to fully close the skin, this wouldn’t be a good choice due to the contamination. I may not always have chosen to stitch this wound on day one due to swelling and contamination level when it presented, however this horse is located a long way from the clinic and it was the best approach for this case.
The injury was cleaned and stitched ONLY partially closed. Appropriate anti-biotics and anti-inflammatories were used. Bandaging is a vital part of the healing process: It will keep the wound compressed so swelling does not pull apart the stitches, and it will act in addition to the stitched skin in providing a moist healing environment.
The images are shown on day 1, post stitching, and 3 weeks post injury.

Case two:
I became the vet of this patient 48 hours post injury. This was again a full thickness skin injury to the front and inside (dorso-medial) aspect of the hind leg. This again is a very common injury. The importance in the treatment of this horse, is to get the bone covered as fast as possible.
I bandaged the wound for 5 days which reduced the swelling and allowed much more movement of the skin flap. As speed of healing was essential for this horse, the decision was made to try and speed up the healing process again with partial wound closure. The horse was anaesthetised, the wound cleaned and debrided, and the wound was partially closed. This is called a delayed closure, as the wound was not stitched at the time of injury (multiple factors were involved in this decision).
Appropriate anti-biotic and anti-inflammatories were used, and again bandaging for this injury was vital.
The images shown are the first day I saw the horse (48 hours) post injury, then the day of surgery, then 4 days post surgery.

I will keep you posted on the healing of these wounds and their ongoing management.

Cooling Down Tendons

Cooling Down Tendons

Cooling down tendons:
This week I was asked by a client which tendon cooling product is the best.
I answered with my usual response….. well that depends.

The correct answer to this is the preparation of your horse is the most important thing.
Firstly let me explain aerobic and anaerobic respiration: Muscles require energy to contract and perform work. When this happens with oxygen present (aerobic metabolism), there is minimal lactic acid build up. When oxygen is not present, lactic acid builds up which is a key feature of muscle fatigue (muscles have reduced ability to contract and become sore). Factors which increase oxygen availability to muscles includes having a fit horse, having good blood supply to the muscles, and having a healthy horse with no disease.

Fitness:
First of all, when we train our horses we need to have them fit. Fitness for the desired discipline means that the blood vessels to the required muscles are maximal, and the muscle cells are able to metabolise aerobically for longer, which means carbohydrate muscle stores are not used as quickly and minimal lactic acid builds up. Fit horses can use more fat instead of carbohydrates for the same amount of exercise as it can be used as an alternative energy source when oxygen is present.

Warming up:
The next thing to remember is that warming up your horse prior to exercise is essential, especially during a competition where multiple tests or phases are needed from that horse. A good warm up allows conversion of blood supply from internal organs to muscles required for exercise. Again this prevents anaerobic (where oxygen is not used to supply energy to the muscles) respiration and the build up of lactic acid. This means stiffness and the sore muscle feeling is reduced.

Cooling down:
The cool down period is essential to ensure increased blood supply to the muscles from exercise remains until all the lactic acid has been removed. An example would be; at the end of cross country, you would continue to trot your horse until the increased respiratory rate reduces and your horse is no longer ‘blowing’.
From here if you wish to use tendon cooling agents then please do. However, please remember the most likely time to injure a tendon is during muscle fatigue, so to avoid muscle fatigue by having a fit horse, that is warmed up correctly, reduces this risk significantly.

Floating your Horse

Floating your Horse

Floating your horse

Good morning central otago. What a lovely weekend it’s going to be. In the last few weeks I have seen several patients that sustained injuries due to accidents inside of the float either whilst loading, or once travelling. Today I just wanted to give you some pointers to think about prior to floating your horse.

Hay or no hay:
The horse has developed as a grazing animal which means that respiratory secretions drain down the trachea, into the mouth and are swallowed. This mechanism is reduced during floating as the horses heads can be held up for a long period of time. In addition, often a hay net is supplied at nose level which can increase dust exposure to your horse and further contaminate the airways. My advice would be to consider the length of your journey. If it is a short trip then no hay will be needed. If your horse needs hay to help keep them relaxed during the journey, then consider dampening the hay prior, but ensure it has had time to drain to avoid causing a slippery ground surface. If you are travelling on a long journey, for example 6 hours or more, it would be a better idea for your horse to plan some stops on the way where they can graze some grass or floor based hay. This will assist in draining the respiratory tract. The respiratory tract is very important for all horses, but especially competitive horses. Promoting good respiratory health with assist in preventing viral disease and promote performance whilst away competing.
Please note if hay is dusty, this is mould spores in your hay and it shouldn’t be fed to your horse.

Feeding:
I feel this would be a good time to remind you all how horses gain most of their energy. Unlike people who digest sugars and carbohydrates in the stomach and small intestine, horses are not well adapted to this. Instead, fermentation of grass and hay in the hind gut produces a source of VFA’s (volatile fatty acids). These produce energy for your horses for them to use for exercise and health. These VFA’s are produced constantly from the fibre in the hind gut even when they are NOT eating. You can therefore be confident that they will continue to gain energy from hind gut fermentation during the entire float ride 😊

Float boots or bandaging:
The idea of leg protection is to prevent injury to the horse primarily from its other legs during transport. A common injury would be to the heel bulbs of the front feet from stepping forward with the hind feet. Sometimes more severe injuries can be sustained from hind feet lacerating the skin and tendons of the front legs. Protection of the legs is a very good idea, but the potential negatives include the float boots or bandages slipping down the legs and panicking your horse resulting in an injury. My advice would be to always consider covering important tendons on the legs as long as your horse is used to it and they are fit snug to the leg. Try to avoid new leg wraps when floating, and trial run them prior. Also remember the shortest of journeys are just as risky for your horse. Please do not forget to remove studs and keepers when floating.

Head trauma:
This is a very common injury also, and mostly it causes skin damage to the forehead and a headache for a few hours. There is nothing you can really do to prevent this other than keep going with your float training. My advice would be, try not to panic. The skin on the head heals very well. The images I have attached are photographs of a common injury, then how it can be easily stitched, and then 10 days later when th stitches are removed.

Melanomas -

Melanomas -

When melanomas go bad:
Every lump on your horse should be noted and examined. Get into the habit of examining your horses routinely when you are grooming them. Some tumours (cancerous growths) can grow very rapidly, so early detection and treatment is the key.
We commonly see melanomas on Grey horses. They are different to the human melanoma and often nothing to worry about. They are usually benign (stay localised without spreading around the body), but they often develop multiple tumours. Grey horse’s tend to continue developing them throughout their lives. Despite them commonly being benign, they can cause issues because of their location: This can be under the saddle area which can rub on tack, or around the anus which can cause cracking when they pass poo. Rarely melanomas on Grey horses can be nasty (become invasive in their area or spread around the body). Monitor all growths and contact your vet if you have any questions or concerns.
Early removal when they are small is the key for those that are located in a problem spot. A medication has been shown to reduced recurrence and development of new tumours but requires multiple daily treatments for the rest of the horses life. This is often not practical or financially viable.

Today I want to describe a melanoma on a non-Grey horse:
This is less common and unfortunately for the horse, often more concerning. This horse was middle to older aged, and a fast growing lump developed on the tail. It was noticed originally because it would be bleed at the smallest of knocks.
A tissue sample sent to the lab provided the diagnosis of a melanoma that was highly aggressive, and likely to spread around the body very quickly. Local excision (removal) was not warranted as it was spreading under the tissues. The only option to save this horses life was to amputate his tail.
For those of you with strong stomachs I have attached some photographs of the surgery itself.
This surgery was done under a standing sedation with an epidural nerve block. This horse has shown a fantastic recover with no signs of pain. In fact he was rolling and playing in the paddock the afternoon after his surgery.
We wish him a long and happy life. He is one of the kindest natured horses I have met. Good luck big guy 😍

Laminitis

Laminitis

Why do horses get laminitis in the spring?

Firstly what is laminitis?
Laminate are structures which hold the pedal bone in place within the hoof capsule. They attached the pedal bone like velcro and are very strong. Laminitis is the inflammation that occurs within these structures which is very painful, and it causes the laminate to be weaker. This can lead to the pedal bone moving inside the hoof capsule which is commonly known as ‘Founder’.

It is common knowledge that horses and ponies are more likely to present with laminitis in the spring. This is because the grass starts to grow rapidly which becomes higher in sugar. Many horses often eat short grass which means they intake a high sugar content. Horses grazing longer grass means that for parts of the day when the sugars are lower down in the grass, less sugars are consumed as they can eat away at the top half.
Another problem is ‘Fructan’ content of grass. This sugar is undigested in the stomach and small intestine of the horse and is a sugar that can trigger laminitis likely due to hind gut disturbances. Fructans are high in any grass that is stressed: Stressed grass includes flooded and drought prone grass, grass grazed very short, and frosted grass.
Another very common trigger is horses and ponies coming out of the winter being over weight. Horses in the wild lose body condition during the winter, but often this is not the case in our horses due to newer feeding abilities. An overweight horse can have metabolic disturbances that result in a high circulating Insulin level. This is called Insulin Resistance. This insulin resistance is a cause in itself for laminitis.
This year in the Spring I have blood tested many overweight ponies who had no known history of laminitis, but I was concerned they were at high risk of developing it due to their post winter obesity. 50% of these ponies tested had a very high circulating Insulin level. I do not believe they had a true metabolic disorders such as Cushings or Equine Metabolic Syndrome. Unfortunately, the high circulating Insulin was just associated with being overweight. This is a very important thing to know as an owners so that we can change their dietary management and help to prevent what would have been the inevitable onset of ‘spring laminitis’.

In summary how can we help to prevent laminitis this spring?
Graze grass that is longer from last autumn. Leave the spring flush to grow and only graze it when it is 10cm long. Do be careful your horse doesn’t eat too much and put on weight though.
Avoid grazing stressed grass, most commonly because it has been over grazed too short previously.
Avoid having your horse carry too much weight. Let’s remember they are athletes and additional weight puts more strain on their joints. If you need help body condition scoring your horse they just ask.
Lastly, if you think you might have over fed your horse this spring and you want to see how at risk they are from the spring sugars, ask for a blood test and I can help you with a safe nutritional programme

Eyes Wide Open

Eyes Wide Open

Eyes Wide Open for the spring

Well I am pretty sure Spring is here! We are having some beautiful days now.
In the last week I have seen a few horses with eye problems so I thought it would be a good topic for this week.
Eye conditions are important to investigate and resolve quickly as retention of complete vision for our horses is paramount. Unfortunately eye conditions can deteriorate rapidly so an emergency phone call is always warranted to seek further advice.

Traumatic Eye Injuries
The horse usually presents with a swollen eye or a closed eye. It is usually just one eye that is affected. It is my job to check for any foreign material in the eye. I also would stain the eye with a green dye called ‘Flourescein’. This allows visualisation of the corneal structure and health, and can highlight any ulceration present. The cornea of a horse heals very slowly which increases the risk of bacterial infection. Topic anti-biotics are often used to prevent this from occurring. The eye must be monitored carefully until it is fully healed.

A little tip: Next time you look at your horses face from the front, note their upper eyelash angle. When a horse has a sore eye, the affected side will show a reduced eyelash angle, ie the upper lashes point down to the ground more in comparison to the opposite side. This is the earliest indicator of an underlying problem.

Sun Damage
Any horses with non-pigmented skin, pink skin, or if they have a pale iris colour, are going to be much more sensitive to sunlight. You will notice some colour dilute horses squint in the light, or seek shade. To help reduce sun exposure to these horses you can provide shade, or more commonly a shade hood. I would recommend you choose one that doesn’t need a halter to be worn in addition, and one that does up with Velcro: If the horse gets it caught on anything it should then rip off.
Horses with this lighter skin colour around their eyes and also the nose are very prone to skin cancer. The best cure is prevention. Keep them out of the sunlight as much as possible, and monitor for any scab like changes in the skin or mucosa. Keep a hood on them during sunlight hours and put sun cream on their noses (powder or cream varieties).

Equine Recurrent Uveitis
This is the last eye condition I want to touch on briefly today. This is often a life long condition for the horse, but can be controlled with careful management. This condition occurs often for unknown reasons, or it can follow a traumatic eye injury. (Following a traumatic eye injury, ocular (eye) inflammation needs to be controlled to prevent this condition from occurring).
The eye becomes inflamed which is seen within the uveal tract; this includes the iris and lens structures. Initially the eye appears is painful for the horse (the eyelids are held slightly closed) and the pupil is smaller than it should be. The clear fluid inside the eye can look speckly when a light is shined across it. If the condition is not controlled then it can progress to cataracts, scarring between the iris and lens, and ultimately retinal changes associated with vision loss. The aim of the treatment is to rule out any underlying causes e.g Equine Recurrent Uveitis can rarely be associated with a systemic (body) bacteria infection of Leptospirosis. Following this, it is important to use medication to treat the painful eye, and then most importantly prevention the condition from returning. Because this condition often affects both eyes it is often difficult to notice these subtle changes. The eyelash angle tip I gave above is a very effective diagnostic tool for this condition.
During a pre-purchase examination this condition is always checked for. Appaloosa horses can have a mild but quietly progressive form which can lead to glaucoma and vision loss.

My final words would be to remind you all that eye injuries are a serious injury for your horse. Please get immediate advice.
Have a great Fathers Day!!


Foaling Time

Foaling Time

Foaling Time

It’s official!We have our first foal on the ground this season and she is a beauty!!
This weeks post is for anyone that is waiting patiently for their foals arrival this season.
Being prepared is the most effective way of giving your foal a good start in its life!

Here are just a few tips from me:
6 weeks prior to foaling: At this time the mare is making all the antibodies the foal will need to fight all of the bacteria and viruses it will come across in the first 6-12 weeks of its life. The antibodies are passed to the foal in colostrum which is absorbed for a short time period (24 hours) only. It is important that the mare produces the correct antibodies for the foals environment, so getting the mare to its foaling destination in advance is a great help.

Dietary requirements: The mare must be maintaining a good body condition score at this stage. She will have less room in her abdomen for fermenting fibre (grass and hay), so ensure good quality roughage is fed that is fermented more rapidly. She may also need a concentrate feed to top up calories depending on her appetite and grass available. Please also ensure she is on a fully balanced diet of minerals. This is important for the foals development.

2 weeks prior to foaling: Ensure the mare is wormed to reduce the risk of milk transfer of larvae. You can also wash the udder to remove any eggs that can stick here.
Physical changes in the mare pending parturition/foaling: In the weeks prior, the abdomen will get larger, the pelvic muscles will relax, and the vulval area will relax. The udder will start to develop. Approximately 48 hours prior to foaling you may see her ‘waxing up’: This is where the colostrum accumulates at the teat ends and looks golden in colour.

Colostrum/Milk leakage: If the mare is not foaling and milk is seen dripping from the udder, please seek advice from your vet as it can indicate placental abnormalities or it can mean vital colostrum is lost.

Vulval Discharge: This is not normal, it can be white, clear, or bloody and is often found in the tail. Call for advice!

A few comments about foals: Foals can get cold easily with the wind and rain as they have a larger surface area to body ration. Ensure that they have adequate shelter available. The can also suffer getting too hot if they have no shelter! Always was your hands before handling them and wear gloves if you have been around other horses, especially sick ones. A healthy foal will eat, poop and lie down to sleep, so monitor for these behaviours. It must be up and drinking soon after birth, and should be drinking writhing 4 hours ideally. If not you must seek help from your vet!

I offer ‘Foal Health Checks’ in the first day of the foals life to ensure the foal is healthy. Early intervention is always the key with foals. NEVER use the ‘WAIT AND SEE APPROACH’.
What to have on hand: Tetanus anti-toxin, naval disinfectant

Bandaging- When to and not to

Bandaging- When to and not to

To bandage or not to bandage. That is the million dollar questions.

Firstly let’s clarify what we mean by a bandage (I am discussing limbs today only).
A bandage is designed to cover an area of the limb, provide a good wound environment for healing, absorb any wound exudate (discharge), and the last layer is to keep a certain amount of compression on the wound and stick the bandage up on the leg.
A non surgical wound heals by granulation tissue formation (pink tissue that fills the hole) and then epithelialisation (new skin formation). Epithelialisation is seen as a thin white to clear line surrounding the wound edges.

Firstly we need to consider if we even need to bandage the leg:
Bandaging does provide a wonderful environment for wound healing. It promotes granulation tissue formation, and speeds up the epithelialisation process (new skin formation). The big concern with distal limb wounds is proud flesh. Proud flesh describes granulation tissue which has become excessive for that particular wound healing, and usually this means it has risen above the level of the skin. We often think about getting rid of proud flesh. My advice would be the promote faster skin growth to prevent proud flesh rather than thinking of getting rid of the proud flesh. The bandage will help promote new skin growth. However, if there is a deep wound that is small, or a superficial (not full skin thickness) wound, then these may be better treated with topical treatments rather than bandaging. This eliminates the risk of the negative effects seen through bandaging.

Bandaging over a wound (primarily layer):
We need to consider if we want the dressing to stick to the wound or not. For example in a very dirty wound you may want the dressing to dry on the wound so that when it is removed, it removes some of the debris. Most likely however, you are wanting the dressing to cover the wound and prevent any padding from sticking to it. This is called an non-adherent wound dressing and can come in forms such as paraffin gauze dressings or melolin type dressings. This dressing will also allow you to apply an ointment to promote wound healing.

Next you need to consider the amount of padding you use (secondary layer):
This will also determine how long you can leave the bandage on for, and how firm the pressure is applied. The more padding used, often the longer the bandage can be left on, and the least risk of bandage sores. A larger amount of padding also can absorb more wound exudate (discharge) therefore reducing the risk of skin sores developing.

External layer (tertiary layer):
The last layer of the bandage is usually vetwrap and elastoplast. This allows compression, waterproofing, and keeps the bandage on the leg. For example, a splint bandage is applied with multiple layers of padding and a compression material such as vetwrap. The compression in this bandage is increased with each layer, until a very firm bandage is achieved with a large amount of support.
Please note: A firm bandage can never be applied to a bandage with little padding; you will get a severe bandage bow, haematoma’s, or skin death.

Bandage placement:
Where the bandage is placed on the leg is important, as most of our horses are kept in paddocks, therefore are likely to be moving around. Firstly I would like to say this is not ideal with a bandaged leg, because the more movement you have, the more risk of the bandage slipping and causing damage from uneven pressure. Confinement is the key. However when this is not possible, please consider placing a bandage on the limb without covering movable joints. For example, a wound on the canon bone may only require a bandage from the top of the fetlock to the bottom of the hock. The front of the fetlock joint is a very common area for bandage sores to develop from friction rubs and is best avoided. If a bandage needs to be applied from toe to hock, then confine the horse, and use a firm bandage with lots of padding to minimise leg bend (please get further advice on this first).
Bandaging a limb for support of a structural issue such as a fracture or severe flexor tendon injury requires veterinary assistance. Sometimes foot wedges are use to align to bony column better to prevent undue forces on the leg during weight bearing.

I hope this just gives you a little bit of information on why we bandage, if we need to bandage, and how to use a bandage to promote good wound healing without risking secondary complication such as skin sores and bandage rubs.
My final note is to say there are other reason we may bandage legs, which could be to reduce sun exposure or to keep flies away

Tetanus Injection - Should I or Shouldn't I

Tetanus Injection - Should I or Shouldn't I

Should I vaccinate my horse for tetanus?

The short answer is – absolutely!

I often hear clients say 'I don't have Tetanus in my paddocks', or 'There has never been Tetanus on this property'.
Please be aware this is INCORRECT and a very dangerous safety net to have. Here is some information on Tetanus for you all. PLEASE CONSIDER VACCINATION!!

What is Tetanus?
Tetanus is a condition caused by a bacteria (Clostridium Tetani) that is naturally found in the soil of your paddocks and your horses digestive tract. Spores formed by this bacteria are great at surviving in extreme environments for long periods of times.
How can my horse catch it?
When your horse sustains a wound, these spores enter the site of injury. The wound environment is very low in oxygen, which creates an ideal place for the spores to become mature bacteria. Once the bacteria have multiplied, they produce toxins that cause stiff limbs, everted 3rd eyelids, a locked jaw and an elevated tail among other signs associated with muscle spasms. A wound could be a foot wound or tooth abnormality, they are not always easily visualised!
Can it be treated?
Treatment can be attempted with antibiotics, muscle relaxants and other supportive care, but the mortality rate is high due to consequences associated with the muscular spasms. Horses affected are often euthanised on welfare grounds; horses are often unable to eat without assistance.
Can it be prevented?
Tetanus can be prevented by vaccination! Ideally EVERY horse should be vaccinated.
If your horse isn’t vaccinated and sustains a wound, a Tetanus Anti-toxin can be given. This anti-toxin is only short-acting and is NOT a vaccination.
The Vaccination protocol is: 2 injections 4-6 weeks apart followed by a one year booster. Following this booster vaccinations are recommended every 2-3 years.

I hope this helps! Have a great Sunday.

Wintering your Horse

Wintering your Horse

The Winter Months.... do our horses get cold?
I am often asked whether a horse needs a rug... what do I do when it is cold at night and warm in the day?
I have put together a few helpful tips for you to consider. Remember every horse is different so do what works best for your horse.

The literature will report that the lower critical temperature of a horse is 5 degrees when they have a summer coat, and minus 7 degrees when they have a winter coat.... What does the lower critical temperature mean??
This is the temperature at which the horse needs additional energy to maintain body warmth...
What does this mean? Well it means that a horse that has adequate shelter from the wind and rain, that is in a good body condition score (3/5), has developed a good winter coat, and is otherwise healthy, should not need a rug unless it gets below minus 7 degrees!!!!!!!!
What is important to remember is that a horse needs time to adjust to its climate (if you have moved from the north island to the south for example).
What we also need to remember is at this time of year we often clip horses, removing their protective coat. We ride them which can make them sweaty and wet which will make them get cold easier. We also confine them which means they cannot walk around to increase their heat production.
Adequate shelter can be either a tree or a man made shelter, but allows the horse to get out of the wind and rain (in the winter this would be from primarily the southerly direction). A rug can act as a really good shelter, however it also does flatten the hairs, which when it is cold, usually stand up to aid in insulation. This means that an adequate rug for the current weather environment is important. A water proof rug must be waterproof and of the correct thickness to keep the horse warm.
Reasons why we may like to rug our horses:
Extra warmth
Because they are clipped or wet
Because they dont have an adequate winter coat
Because we like to
Because they may not have any shelter.... many other reasons...

Just remember when deciding to rug or not to rug, take into account where the horse has come from, the shelter available, the coat thickness of the horse, the discipline the horse works in, and your own time constraints aswell. The wonderful thing about a good shelter is horses can manage a lot of this for you.

I hope this helps!! Have a great Winter!!

Seasonal Worming

Seasonal Worming

The low down on worming at this time of year:
The weather is starting to change, and this is the time of year that the worm larvae start to think about halting their growth and hibernating for the winter in the intestinal mucosa. When they do this we call them ‘encysted ’ and they are very hard to kill with wormers: we need to get them before they do this. During the the cold months many larvae don’t progress to become adults, and there is minimal development of larvae in the eggs so the worm cycle slows or halts. During the winter Faecal Egg counts can therefore be inaccurate, but if they are high then we need to address it.
What can happen with these ‘encysted’ or hibernating worms is that they all make up at once during the spring and cause mass disruption to the intestinal mucosa and if they larvae number is high enough can cause a dangerous diarrhoea. This is what we are trying to prevent by getting rid of the larvae now!

Saying this... I want us to remember that central otago hasn’t had cold cold winters in the last few years so worm burdens and egg output have increased over the winter months unlike in previous years when they halted. Also the winters have not been cold enough to damage eggs and stop them developing so pastures are staying contaminated. Depending on the weather the worm cycle can be different every year.

What should we do? If your horses have not been wormed since the spring then worm them ASAP. Only use good worms, which as a general rule are wormers that have 3 active ingredients. (I am selling good wormers at a very discounted rate this autumn so get in touch if you need some). If you have wormed them this summer then do a Faecal egg count now and see what worm burden your horses have. Do a Faecal egg count in the winter to make sure that it is not getting very high.
Remember harrowing will spread any eggs in the faeces so this is not ideal to do when your horses have a high faecal egg count as it will cause widespread pasture contamination and then they are more likely to eat worm eggs.

Any more questions feel free to get in touch.
Simply we want pastures free of eggs buy reducing egg output. The only way your horse can get ‘wormy’ is by eating eggs! Enjoy your breakfast!

 

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I highly recommend Becci and Central Lakes Equine as our vet of choice for our equine friends. Nothing is ever a problem. No question too silly. Becci and her team are always thorough and reliable. I trust her knowledge and decisions 100%. She always explains everything before she does it and sums up afterwards to make sure we understand the treatment and plan. I also love her Facebook education sessions. Great for a non-horsey parent.

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